Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Airline Thanksgiving, Rugby, and the Attack of the 22 lb. Fire-Chicken

Happy Thanksgiving from China!  We hope everybody had a great holiday weekend, and I know we have quite a bit to be thankful for.  Most of all (after family, health, etc.) we have our household goods.  The boys have been thoroughly enjoying all of the toys they forgot they had.  Thanks to the fact that the only children's movie we had with us for almost 3 full months was Cars, Stephen has been carrying his toy cars with him everywhere.  He even started naming them after people we've met since we arrived.  His other favorite toy is anything that David happens to be playing with.  David seems to be the more reasonable of the two.  Once Stephen takes his toy, he cries for a little bit just to make sure we know what happened so Stephen gets in trouble, and then he grabs one of the other million toys we have.  Please understand we don't spoil our children.  At times, we have even told Stephen's and David's grandparents and aunts and uncles to stop buying them toys.  Apparently though, a grandparent has as hard of a time understanding that as I do understanding my classes over here.  In some cases they instead hear, "please go buy our son the loudest toy you can find that doesn't have an 'off' switch."  David is particularly fond of a little plastic parrot that he found in a Go Diego Go play set.  He's been carrying it around the house like a little Coco-B-Ware since it got here.  If you get that reference, you get free membership to this blog's premium content.  If you didn't get the reference, you still get access to the premium content, but you have to live with feeling like you didn't really earn it.

Anyway, we pulled off Thanksgiving on Thursday and it went pretty well.  With a few exceptions such as purple sweet potatoes, a pumpkin pie that was more crust than filling, and none of the cranberries that keep the shape of the can they were in, we had a pretty traditional Western Thanksgiving.  We did a late dinner because one of our friends had to work and didn't get done teaching until 6pm.  We were hoping to get some of my classmates involved, but none were too keen on partaking of our fire-chicken.  The Chinese word for turkey is huoji (火鸡) which literally translates to "fire chicken" which makes it sounds awesome.  You would think with a name that awesome, everybody would want a taste, but I think there are several issues.  The first is the majority of my classmates are mostly girls who are 10 to 12 years younger than me.  Secondly, at least here in Kunming, there is very little interaction between students outside of class.  We had one social event in the anthropology department where the Chinese Communist Youth League sponsored a picnic.  Technically I guess that makes it less a social event and more of a socialist event, but it still counts.  Other than that everybody seems to pretty much keep to themselves.  Another factor was that the one class I have with classmates that are more outgoing and who would be interested in having Thanksgiving dinner meets on Thursday afternoons from 2pm to 6pm and the campus an hour outside of town.  I went ahead and played the American Card and took a 4-day weekend, but most other students here don't have that option.  Lack of cross-cultural interaction aside, we still had a pretty good dinner.  I was able to find a store where you could sign up and order a frozen turkey imported from the United States.  Initially I didn't realize it was going to be shipped in from the U.S. so I had visions of a turkey showing up with feathers and all (think the duck from A Christmas Story) so I factored that into the weight.  Everybody else had signed up for 12 to 13kg birds so I took a more conservative route and ordered a 10kg bird.  Turns out the birds were imported from the U.S. and were the same as the ones you'd pick up at any supermarket, meaning we ended up with a bird weighing somewhere around 22 pounds.  Even after giving our friends quite a bit to take home, we still have close to 10 pounds left so it looks like we have a lot of turkey sandwiches in our future.  Luckily, imported turkey is more reasonably priced than cheese so I still feel like we got a pretty good deal.  Additionally I'll get to eat leftovers for quite a while so I get cold turkey sandwiches for lunch as long as it lasts.  The only downside will be having to quit cold turkey once it runs out.

Thanksgiving was so good on Thursday that we decided to do it again on Friday.  Kate got an invitation from some of the families in a mothers' group she attends to eat Thanksgiving with them also.  This was great until a few days after she accepted when she received an e-mail telling her that aside from having to bring a side dish, we would also be expected to pay for a share of the turkey they bought.  Now, these families are all really nice people, and I understand that we're a little better off over here than most American families because of the military benefits we receive.  I also understand that imported turkey is expensive (we paid almost $100 U.S. dollars for ours) and a lot for one family to pay if there aren't going to be any leftovers, but I also think that's the kind of thing you tell somebody when you invite them, not several days after they've accepted the invitation.  It felt a little like the time I took a red-eye flight from Hawaii and found out after I got on the plane that American Airlines was now charging $10 for pillows and blankets.  Much to Kate's dismay, I spent the next several days thinking of ways to offset the costs like charging them because we used imported green beans in the green bean casserole that Kate made.  I also tried to add a surcharge for bringing the casserole in a fancy dish instead of a Tupperware container.  I also checked to make sure that there weren't any more hidden costs such as beverage surcharges or overage charges if we ate more than our allotted weight of turkey.  I also made Kate put everything in one diaper bag so we wouldn't get hit with excess baggage fees and had Stephen stuff some extra turkey in his pockets before we left.  What's more, after we got there, we found out that one family backed out and that we would all have to absorb the cost of the turkey that they were no longer paying for.  I feel like there is some sort of lesson about economics in this that can be juxtaposed with the current situation in the U.S. and/or global economies, but I'm an Artillery officer with a degree in Chemistry who is studying art anthropology in Chinese so I'm not going to be the one to find it.  Overall, we had a very good time with great food and great company, but in the future I'll know to read the fine print so we don't get involved in some kind of crazy pyramid-scheme Christmas party.  Although, how cool would a blog post titled A Bernie Madoff Christmas be?

In an effort to get more local interaction I joined a rugby team.  I played rugby for part of a semester 12 years ago at West Point as part of my intramural requirement so I'm as equally qualified to play rugby as I am to study anything other than Chinese in Chinese.  So far we have had one practice which was the inaugural practice for the team.  The impetus behind our team is a guy from New Zealand who lives here who met some guys from teams in Chengdu and Chongqing who are looking for more teams across China to play.  His hope is to get a club going that will continue to perpetuate through the years and eventually be more Chinese than it is foreign.  So far we have 3 Americans, 1 Irishman, and 1 New Zealander.  Somehow, I was designated the team interpreter.  Our first practice went pretty well and after about an hour we had about 50 people standing by and watching us.  One group even brought a bucket of KFC to eat while they watched.  After a while we took a break and I asked a few of the guys watching if they wanted to play too and we got three of them to participate so it was a pretty good first attempt.  My attempts to explain the rules were even pretty successful.  The highlight of the day was when the guy from New Zealand tried to explain that one team member was from Ireland.  After a few attempts in Chinese, he finally gave up and said, "Ireland, you know, oi, deedle di dee, potatoes!" in his best Irish accent while doing a jig.  The best part, though, was the fact that the guy from Ireland just shrugged his shoulders and said, "That's pretty accurate."  I think this promises to be quite the interesting adventure.

Finally, we started putting up Christmas decorations this weekend.  Kate has been busy spreading Christmas cheer around the apartment while David has been going around checking to see which ornaments and decorations taste the most like Christmas.  Stephen has been keeping busy staging epic battles between snowmen, manger scenes, nutcrackers, and a dinosaur he's been fond of for the past several days.  So far the velociraptor always seems to come out on top.  Continue to enjoy the holidays and don't forget to read the fine print!  再见!
22 lbs of Turkey Ready to Start Cooking


Same Turkey Almost 6 Hours Later


David, Stephen, and Jeanne Mei Anxious to Start Eating

Happy Thanksgiving from China!

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Around China: Chengdu - 成都

At the beginning of October, we decided it was finally time to get out of Kunming and see some more of China.  Actually, I had a break from school due to the Chinese National Day holiday and we hadn't been able to check in with the Consulate we fall under yet so we decided to head to Chengdu (成都).  Chengdu is about an hour north of Kunming by airplane which isn't too bad of a trip.  It is the capital of China's Sichuan province (四川省) and was founded around 1200 B.C.

I'm going to take a quick aside and explain China's National Day holiday (国庆节).  It celebrates when the People's Republic of China was founded on 1 October, 1949 at Tiananmen Square in Beijing.  The actual holiday is 3 days, but the observed holiday is 7 days, making it last from 1 to 7 October.  This year, 1 October was a Saturday so we effectively had a week off of school, or so I thought.  It turns out, only Monday through Wednesday were "official holiday days" and that they just give everybody Thursday and Friday off as well so they'll be able to travel longer/stimulate the economy more.  However, to make up for that, the classes that are originally held on Thursday and Friday are then held on Saturday and Sunday instead.  This was all discovered after the fact.  On Saturday afternoon, I got a text message from a classmate from Vietnam asking me if we had our Thursday class that day.  Turns out we did, but at that point the class was going to start in 10 minutes and was at the new campus over 45 minutes away so we weren't going anyway.  We decided that we wouldn't be affected too much since we didn't understand what was being said and went about enjoying our weekend.  Our teachers thought it was pretty funny and were probably glad that we had a somewhat legitimate excuse since most of our other classmates randomly skip weeks of class at a time for no reason at all.

So there we are in Chengdu.  We had two full days before our schedule meeting at the Consulate so we took the opportunity to see some of the sights.
From our hotel, we took a short walk to the subway station.  Currently there is just one line, but they're working on a second.  Our first stop was Tianfu Square (天府广场).  Eventually this will be the site of the main subway station in Chengdu, but currently it is just a fairly unremarkable public square.  One item of note is the water fountains which are pretty impressive and come one several times a day synchronized to music.  The second is a large (about 90ft) statue of Mao Zedong.  We spent about 10 minutes here looking around and watching the fountains and then continued on when Stephen and David started to attract a crowd.  Normally, in Kunming, people will tell us how cute they are and then be on their way, but here, they were superstars and quickly had crowds of people around them all wanting to hold them, take pictures of them, or just touch their faces.  I have decided that the next time I see a Chinese tourist in the U.S. with a small child, I'm going to run up and start groping their child's face and telling them how beautiful their child is.  Take that Chinese lack of boundaries and/or personal space!

Next up, we walked over to the People's Park (人民公园).  This is a fairly large park in the middle of the town with a lake, lots of walking paths, and some rides for the kids.  Like most of the better parks in China, it offers a good break from the city and lets you forget, for a while, that you're in a city of almost 15 million people where you can't see the sky through the smog.

Stephen, of course, took advantage of the opportunity to stretch his legs and climb on anything and everything.  At one point, when we were walking around the lake, I turned around to find Stephen at a fence along the bank, talking to a group of girls who had floated over in their paddle boat to get a better look at him.  He's quite the ladies' man over here.

Our next stop on the first day was at the Wenshu Temple and Monastery (文殊院寺).  This is an ancient Buddhist temple and monastery and is home to many ancient relics and artifacts.  The temple itself is pretty impressive and the decorations are beautiful.  Throughout the day, you can visit and see people burning incense and offering prayers.

The grounds surrounding the temple are full of trees, walking paths, and quiet places.  At one point, an old man came up and asked us if we were American.  When we told him yes, he began reciting the history of the Flying Tigers and the 10th and 14th Army Air Corps from World War II when they were based in China.  He did all of this in English which was pretty impressive.  The Chinese people's reverence for the American servicemen during WWII always impresses me.  In this area at least, there are very few people who do not know the history of the Flying Tigers and the Army Air Corps and what they did for China during WWII.
 


On Day 2, we made the trek north of the city to check out the panda reserve and research center.  I'm still not sure that the big deal about pandas is.  They're basically a bunch of vegan bears that are black and white.  It was nice to finally see one in person after we were disappointed at the zoo in D.C. and the highlight of Kate's day was getting to see about a dozen baby pandas all sleeping in the nursery.  It was the definition of cute.  In addition to the regular pandas, they also had red pandas.  These seemed much more active than regular pandas and were more fun to watch.  All of the panda enclosures had big signs in English reminding visitors to be quiet.  It also had a Chinese translation, which appeared to say the same thing, but apparently translated into "Please scream at the pandas, bang on the walls of the enclosures and throw sticks at them in order to get their attention so you can take a picture because nothing gets a wild animal to come close to you like being a loud, obnoxious, jackass."  Chalk it up to "cultural differences."

In addition to their pandas, the research base also boasted a pretty nice park with some good walking paths.  One of the better ones was a boardwalk that went around a lake which was a particular favorite of the boys.
On our last day, after our meeting at the Consulate, we went over to Jinli Street (金利路) which is a pretty well-kept historical shopping district.  Here you can find all sorts of little food stands, souvenirs, and theater houses.  As you can see from the picture, it is pretty popular and not too easy to navigate with a stroller, but it was a good place to have lunch and you can even find some less-crowded side paths that offer access to some pretty scenic areas.

That night, we hopped back on a plane and headed home.  The nice thing about having our post office box in Chengdu is that we'll have the opportunity to go back and see some more of the many attractions, although the pandas better get their act together if they want us to visit again......vegan hippies.

Ten Pounds of Reasonably Priced Cheese

Apparently I'm as good at blogging as I am at keeping a diary.  I think I have one or two lying around somewhere in storage each with no more than 10 days of entries from various stages of my life, all offering proof that I would rather go out and do something rather than write about it.  However, I figure I need to do a better job with the blogs for two reasons.  The first is that when it comes time to write my first-year report for the Olmsted Foundation, I plan on putting it off for so long that I have no other choice but to come to this blog so I can copy and paste all of the entries into the report and call it a day (for any foundation staff reading this blog, I'm almost completely kidding).  The second reason is that we have a lot of friends and family who read this and probably got hooked on my literary prowess after only a few paragraphs.  I feel like I owe it to them for not forewarning them about how addictive reading about my life can be.

Anyway, if you're still reading at this point, I stand firm behind the validity of my second reason.  This will be a short update about what has been going on with us and then I plan on two more rapid-fire entries to update you on some of our travels and provide a few pictures because my photography skills are right up there on par with my writing skills...and my ninja skills.

As far as school is concerned, I'm still feeling like I'm in over my head.  I'm keeping up with what is going on in class and I'm usually aware of the topics being discussed if not the details, but we're about two months away from the end of the semester now and I still haven't had a homework assignment yet.  Actually that's not true.  In one class, we were told to translate two entries from an anthropology dictionary into Chinese.  I spent some late nights getting it done, only to show up at the next class and find out I was the only one who did it.  Additionally, the professor never asked for us to turn it in.  In another class, we had to write an essay (5000 characters or roughly 2500 words in English) about one of four topics.  All of the reference material is in Chinese and a week before the assignment was due, I still had not received my library card for the campus library.  I went to the teacher and explained my situation as well as the fact that Chinese is hard.  He said no problem (he also knows that I'm a master's student in his PhD class for reasons we still have yet to figure out) and that I could turn it in whenever I get it done.  The next week, I expected to see everybody else turning in their papers.  They either turned them in directly to his office or they didn't do them either because nobody had papers.  It seems that our entire grades will come down to final exams or final essays (the teacher gets to decide) which means I'm pretty much screwed.

One the home front, Kate and the boys are both doing well.  Stephen is starting to speak more and more Chinese (he also understands more than he lets on) and David is walking up a storm and has even ventured into climbing.  David celebrated his 1st birthday with a cake and a few days later, a trip to Chengdu.  Also, after only a little over three months (guys from the embassy thought that was pretty fast) our household goods finally arrived.  We got the arrival date about 5 days in advance so we were pretty excited.  On the date the shipment was supposed to arrive, we got a call from the mover about 15 minutes before the scheduled delivery time and were told that the truck was too big to drive into our part of town during that day, and that they had to wait until after 8pm to make the delivery.  I asked if they could simply put the delivery on to several smaller trucks and they said no.  I told them they were full of crap (not really because I don't know how to say that in Chinese) because our other shipment came in the middle of the day in a smaller truck, but they assured me, they couldn't do that.  What followed was an agonizingly long 9-hour wait.  At 8:30pm, when the movers finally arrived, they had broken everything down into three smaller moving trucks, all of which could have come into our part of town during the day.  At about 12:30am (for every one person that carried a box, there were two that stood around) all the boxes were unloaded and in our apartment and at 1:30am, we finally told them to stop unpacking and go home.  Kate then spent the next three-and-a-half days in some kind of heightened state of organizing and got everything unpacked and put away.  Think Beautiful Mind but with unpacking instead of math and only slightly less craziness.  I don't know how she did it (she's amazing) but I do know that I can now scratch "watch a guy in a dirty sport coat and loafers move household goods into my apartment at midnight" off of my bucket list.

To sum it all up, school is hard, the boys are crazy, we still like China, and we have our stuff.  Enjoy the travel stories that should follow shortly.  Also, Kate would like me to point out that today we spent about $75 on a block of cheese.  Granted, it was an over 10-pound block of cheese (jealous Stew?) and for cheese in China it was pretty reasonably priced, but seriously?  It wasn't even fancy cheese, just regular old Irish cheddar.  It did however, just give me the inspiration for the title of this article so I'll finish by saying, "That'll do cheese, that'll do."